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Hello Neil, and welcome.blueneil wrote: The layout will be a complete oval with a lift up hydraulic section at the door end, the baseboards will only be approx 21¨ depth due to the constraints on the width, any proposals would be very welcome as i have zero clue on what to produce!
Hi Richard, i got the windows off eBay, they match my home in the light oak effect, then i made the building around the windows, just stud work, i actually made the 4 sides as separate sections, then bolted them altogether, then i clad it in 18mm OSB board, then gave it a building wrap then clad it in Tantalized Ship lap, put the roof on made from sheet steel cladding, brought a high security door, on the inside, clad the ceiling in 5M lengths of upvc hollow soffit board, the stud work was 3x2, so i put in 75mm insulation in the walls&ceiling, in the floor i put 50mm Celotex insulation, on top of that 18mm OSB board again, then laid a cheap wooden floor on top again, then the internal walls i fixed some 10MM plywood, i added LED recessed down lights on a dimmer switch & some fluorescent lighting for main lighting for when working in there, i added many sockets, everything wired up by my Electrician friend with a mini fuse board with breakers, the whole project cost me about 1400 Pounds, but i applied all my own labour, sometimes i could see NO end to it all, but it all came good at the end!Tricky Dicky wrote:Hi Neil
I am looking to create my man cave this coming year and I am torn between buying a sectional building or building from scratch. Could you provide some more constructional details and some idea of the costs involved?
Richard
PS The build so far looks superb a nice job.
That is such a good idea compared to the standard bitumen cloth stuff, even "heavy duty" is only lasting me 5-6 years and I have been looking for alternatives thank you for the ideablueneil wrote:the roof on made from sheet steel cladding
Hi Pete, Thanks for the compliment, it will be OO gauge, i have purchased heaps of stuff over the last 4 years, however, i do have a sort of idea of what i wish to achieve, but i know absolutely nothing about railways! Let me explain why i have not started, simply because i feel what ever i design will be wrong & not functional, for the last 4 years i have been to many many shows including only last weekend for the Warley Show, i dont quite understand all the terminologies, also when i look at layouts with a lot of point work & crossovers etc...it confuses me where to put such things on my layout.RailwayRobbo wrote:Hi Neil and welcome to the forum.
That's a really nice looking 'Man Cave' you've built there. It reminds of my time over 10 years ago when I started a similar journey building my 'Layout Shed' for PETERSDALE.
You've come to the right place for both inspiration and advice regarding anything model railway related. The thing I found most helpful way back at the beginning of PETERSDALE was to have a sort of picture in your head of how you'd like the final layout to look when it's complete (they say layouts are never complete. I'm finding that out now.). Everybody has there own ideas about what they want from their layout. I went for the Branch Line Terminus because I wanted to model a railway within the countryside. Others love to have what I call 'action layouts' with multiple trains continuously running on the main line. I love the variation you see on the forum of the different layouts. I've enjoyed all the aspects of building my layout I hope you do to. I'll be following your thread with interest.
Feel free to take a look at my thread.
The story of PETERSDALE my OO gauge Branch Line Layout - http://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Fo ... 22&t=48988
Pete (RailwayRobbo)
Measure the width of your building, then buy the sheets in closest length, cut them into 2 sections, use a slitting disc in a angle grinder,fit them to your roof using the appropriate fixings, the screws are self cutting into the sheet with a built in rubber washer so they seal to make them weatherproof, only do one side of the roof at a time, as the opposite side with be opposing, you can simply screw the cut sheet direct to an existing wooden roof, they overlap on the joins by one pitch of the pattern within the sheet, its about 100mm overlap, simply silicone along the joint & lay the next section onto top of the previous one, so you are laying a metre at a time, soon cover the whole roof, then fit a ridge section, average shed/large shed, no more than a days work tops....hope it helpsfourtytwo wrote:That is such a good idea compared to the standard bitumen cloth stuff, even "heavy duty" is only lasting me 5-6 years and I have been looking for alternatives thank you for the ideablueneil wrote:the roof on made from sheet steel cladding
Thank you so much Neil, great needs doing next summer (torn blownoff patched last week in mini tornado!) Rogerblueneil wrote:Measure the width of your building, then buy the sheets in closest length, cut them into 2 sections, use a slitting disc in a angle grinder,fit them to your roof using the appropriate fixings, the screws are self cutting into the sheet with a built in rubber washer so they seal to make them weatherproof, only do one side of the roof at a time, as the opposite side with be opposing, you can simply screw the cut sheet direct to an existing wooden roof, they overlap on the joins by one pitch of the pattern within the sheet, its about 100mm overlap, simply silicone along the joint & lay the next section onto top of the previous one, so you are laying a metre at a time, soon cover the whole roof, then fit a ridge section, average shed/large shed, no more than a days work tops....hope it helpsfourtytwo wrote:That is such a good idea compared to the standard bitumen cloth stuff, even "heavy duty" is only lasting me 5-6 years and I have been looking for alternatives thank you for the ideablueneil wrote:the roof on made from sheet steel cladding