My first proper layout
My first proper layout
Hi all,
I'm currently in the process of planning an n gauge layout on a 6x4 baseboard which will be in the garage with the plan eventually for it to be on a pulley system for easy storage (could cause me some headaches, but I'm sure it's possible!).
My current headache is what to do regarding track choices. I've been using SCARM to come up with some ideas using Peco Setrack. The main reason for this choice was that I already have quite a lot of Peco code 80 setrack from a layout my dad and I made about 20 years ago. The track is all in good nick and will save me a lot of money but after reading lots of forums and watching videos, I'm concerned about the the curve radiuses, especially on the Setrack points. I've heard a lot about n gauge locos struggling on the curves and the points and I don't want to spend a lot of time creating a layout if it is not going to run well. I honestly can't remember having issues 20 years ago with the running but that doesn't mean there weren't any! I suppose the question is do I flog it all on eBay and invest in streamline, or are my worries about setrack over the top? Also, I have no experience in cutting track or measuring angels but would be willing to learn.
My layout will have one large loop running parallel track with a branch coming off and using up some of the space in the middle. Obviously I'll have siding areas too. I'm also really keen on making it look realistic with scenery etc.
My baseboard is plywood with lots of bracing underneath using timber. I'm thinking of putting a 50mm layer of insulating foam on top of the ply to help me create a realistic landscape.
All thoughts welcomed.
Thanks!
I'm currently in the process of planning an n gauge layout on a 6x4 baseboard which will be in the garage with the plan eventually for it to be on a pulley system for easy storage (could cause me some headaches, but I'm sure it's possible!).
My current headache is what to do regarding track choices. I've been using SCARM to come up with some ideas using Peco Setrack. The main reason for this choice was that I already have quite a lot of Peco code 80 setrack from a layout my dad and I made about 20 years ago. The track is all in good nick and will save me a lot of money but after reading lots of forums and watching videos, I'm concerned about the the curve radiuses, especially on the Setrack points. I've heard a lot about n gauge locos struggling on the curves and the points and I don't want to spend a lot of time creating a layout if it is not going to run well. I honestly can't remember having issues 20 years ago with the running but that doesn't mean there weren't any! I suppose the question is do I flog it all on eBay and invest in streamline, or are my worries about setrack over the top? Also, I have no experience in cutting track or measuring angels but would be willing to learn.
My layout will have one large loop running parallel track with a branch coming off and using up some of the space in the middle. Obviously I'll have siding areas too. I'm also really keen on making it look realistic with scenery etc.
My baseboard is plywood with lots of bracing underneath using timber. I'm thinking of putting a 50mm layer of insulating foam on top of the ply to help me create a realistic landscape.
All thoughts welcomed.
Thanks!
- Ironduke
- Posts: 1234
- Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 12:04 am
- Location: Ballarat Victoria Australia
- Contact:
Re: My first proper layout
Hi ICL,
Looks good. I model N gauge too so I will be following this with interest.
Looks good. I model N gauge too so I will be following this with interest.
Regards
Rob
Rob
Re: My first proper layout
Thanks.
The branch line in that image has 2nd radius curves. Just had a play with using 3rd radius which I've attached to this post and may be a better option.
The branch line in that image has 2nd radius curves. Just had a play with using 3rd radius which I've attached to this post and may be a better option.
Re: My first proper layout
a good mechanical engineer, either. I like your track plan. That branch is most ingenious.
Nessie rocks!
Re: My first proper layout
My usual "not another 6x4":
6x4 or 8x4 tables are normally a poor use of the space available. You can't reach the back of the layout if it's pushed into a corner, so once you consider the required access to both long sides and an end, it takes up an area more like 8x8 or 10x8. They are better when you cut a central hole and operate from there, but usually waste space as it's unusual to have a free space exactly that size. They originate from the days of train sets assembled on the dining table and packed away in time for tea. Hornby and others still peddle them as the way to build a model railway- most likely because, having sold you one of their train sets, they can then sell you their track and building packs to expand the layout in stages (it's so easy to build!). But, while lots of people build one, far fewer build another.
Rather than getting a big slab of wood and finding a space to put it, consider the area available and design a layout to fit into it. Particularly in N, a shelf no wider than a set of bookshelves can run around three sides of the room carrying a double track, with a wider section in a corner or on one side to accomodate the main focal point- be that a passenger station, industry or anything else of interest The floor in the middle is clear and shelves can be constructed for storage underneath. Should all four walls be unavailable, you could have an L-shaped arrangement in the corner, perhaps with folding or removable sections to complete the circuit.
You get a space-efficient layout which doesn't dominate the middle of a room like a 6x4 does, and allows for a much longer circuit and more interest.
6x4 or 8x4 tables are normally a poor use of the space available. You can't reach the back of the layout if it's pushed into a corner, so once you consider the required access to both long sides and an end, it takes up an area more like 8x8 or 10x8. They are better when you cut a central hole and operate from there, but usually waste space as it's unusual to have a free space exactly that size. They originate from the days of train sets assembled on the dining table and packed away in time for tea. Hornby and others still peddle them as the way to build a model railway- most likely because, having sold you one of their train sets, they can then sell you their track and building packs to expand the layout in stages (it's so easy to build!). But, while lots of people build one, far fewer build another.
Rather than getting a big slab of wood and finding a space to put it, consider the area available and design a layout to fit into it. Particularly in N, a shelf no wider than a set of bookshelves can run around three sides of the room carrying a double track, with a wider section in a corner or on one side to accomodate the main focal point- be that a passenger station, industry or anything else of interest The floor in the middle is clear and shelves can be constructed for storage underneath. Should all four walls be unavailable, you could have an L-shaped arrangement in the corner, perhaps with folding or removable sections to complete the circuit.
You get a space-efficient layout which doesn't dominate the middle of a room like a 6x4 does, and allows for a much longer circuit and more interest.
Re: My first proper layout
Oh no, what a nightmare! I think if I do go pulley system I'll get someone else to do it as I'm sure mine would probably end up on the floor too!Chops wrote:Smeltertown Rebuild and Xenon records 003.JPG
I had built up this nice little 2x6 trolley layout sometime back. Then the pulleys gave way. Neither am I
a good mechanical engineer, either. I like your track plan. That branch is most ingenious.
Re: My first proper layout
Cheers for the input. I had read that in a few places on various forums. With the space I have a 6x4 should work out ok as there is plenty room around it luckily. I thought long and hard about the size and did think about a longer, narrower layout but for the way we use the space, a rectangle will work best. It would be nice one day to have one that runs around the outside of the room like you suggest and if this one goes well I might go for it!pete12345 wrote:My usual "not another 6x4":
6x4 or 8x4 tables are normally a poor use of the space available. You can't reach the back of the layout if it's pushed into a corner, so once you consider the required access to both long sides and an end, it takes up an area more like 8x8 or 10x8. They are better when you cut a central hole and operate from there, but usually waste space as it's unusual to have a free space exactly that size. They originate from the days of train sets assembled on the dining table and packed away in time for tea. Hornby and others still peddle them as the way to build a model railway- most likely because, having sold you one of their train sets, they can then sell you their track and building packs to expand the layout in stages (it's so easy to build!). But, while lots of people build one, far fewer build another.
Rather than getting a big slab of wood and finding a space to put it, consider the area available and design a layout to fit into it. Particularly in N, a shelf no wider than a set of bookshelves can run around three sides of the room carrying a double track, with a wider section in a corner or on one side to accomodate the main focal point- be that a passenger station, industry or anything else of interest The floor in the middle is clear and shelves can be constructed for storage underneath. Should all four walls be unavailable, you could have an L-shaped arrangement in the corner, perhaps with folding or removable sections to complete the circuit.
You get a space-efficient layout which doesn't dominate the middle of a room like a 6x4 does, and allows for a much longer circuit and more interest.
Re: My first proper layout
It's your call of course, but I feel you'll get a superior layout for your efforts in the same floor area with a different design. As I said, it's rare for people to build a second 6x4 and there are good reasons why.
Re: My first proper layout
An interesting point. In terms of space a 4 x 8 really needs 8 x 12 feet of space to reach all corners effectively. Even then,
one has to make the grand circle tour to reach the other side.
Perhaps wires suspended from the ceiling so as to transport the modeler like Peter Pan in flight?
one has to make the grand circle tour to reach the other side.
Perhaps wires suspended from the ceiling so as to transport the modeler like Peter Pan in flight?
Nessie rocks!
Re: My first proper layout
In my old club we had a 2mx3m (about 6' x 10') exhibition layout that usually lived up at ceiling height. The trick is to use a small hand winch for raising and lowering. That way you can lower under control and if it hooks up on anything you can just stop winding and lock off while you sort things out.ICL wrote:Oh no, what a nightmare! I think if I do go pulley system I'll get someone else to do it as I'm sure mine would probably end up on the floor too!Chops wrote:Smeltertown Rebuild and Xenon records 003.JPG
I had built up this nice little 2x6 trolley layout sometime back. Then the pulleys gave way. Neither am I
a good mechanical engineer, either. I like your track plan. That branch is most ingenious.
Of course you also need to make sure all your pulleys are well anchored to strong points in th ceiling.
Albert