Advice

Any questions about designing a model railway layout or problems with track work.
kebang
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Re: Advice

Postby kebang » Thu Feb 16, 2017 3:04 pm

I've little experience of drawing shunting layouts, but I was curious to see how many sidings I could squeeze into this small space & still keep a minimum of 2nd rad curves. (Excuse all the little short straights, I just wondered if it could all be done in set track without cutting :D )
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kebang
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Re: Advice

Postby kebang » Thu Feb 16, 2017 3:13 pm

Losing the passing loop/island station does allow you to make the all sidings a little longer
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harris
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Re: Advice

Postby harris » Thu Feb 16, 2017 3:25 pm

Hi
On the oval plan I am going with on the previous page what are the peco track numbers (to the right of ST240 at the top) and (to the right of ST200 opposite the platform) they are so small I cant read them
Cheers
I measure 5 times but still end up drilling twice

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Mountain
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Re: Advice

Postby Mountain » Thu Feb 16, 2017 6:34 pm

Don't be scared to use flexible track as it is much cheaper then sectional track. Yes it does need cutting. Track cutting shears is best for beginners and a set of cheap small files for the ones that have not cut right. What I will say to use in sectional track is to use the 2nd radius curves. If you are short in space the sectional track curves don't push outwards like flexible track does so one will, by using a mix of flexible and sectional track get the best of value for money and the best in operation in a small space.
Another thing I will add is I used to avoid using curved points as they have a greater length of frog which can cause derailments. Also I have heard in the past that if any points act up it will be the three way points. Never had issues with the one I had so I can't comment on this.

kebang
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Re: Advice

Postby kebang » Fri Feb 17, 2017 2:07 am

A couple more options....
two shunting options.jpg
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(The two passing loops might be helpful)

kebang
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Re: Advice

Postby kebang » Fri Feb 17, 2017 2:22 am

Here's the Track Parts list for the first oval that you can't read. (The one with the reverse loop)
ST200, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST200 Straight 6.61". 5
ST201, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST201 Straight 13.19". 3
ST202, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST202 Straight 3.11". 4
ST203, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST203 Straight 1.61". 2
ST204, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST204 Straight 26.38". 5
ST225, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST225 Curve radius 17.24", angle 22.5º(R2) 6
ST226, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST226 Curve radius 17.24", angle 45º(R2) 9
ST227, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST227 Curve radius 17.24", angle 11.25º(R2) 1
ST238, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST238 Curve radius 33.84", angle 11.25º 1
ST240, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST240 Right turnout 6.61". (manual) 7
ST241, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST241 Left turnout 6.61". (manual) 2
ST247, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST247 Wye turnout 6.69". (manual) 2
You might also try increasing the magnification of your browser
As Mountain says cutting flex track to size, particularly straight sections is not too difficult. I agree with Mountain re avoiding flex track for curves of set track radius though, that is a little more difficult. Flex track looks good for shallow sweeping curves (That's a bit difficult in this space! :D )
The 3way points are more difficult to 'tune' than others - I personally have had no trouble with hornby curved points but I've heard plenty of stories from people that have...

paule23
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Re: Advice

Postby paule23 » Fri Feb 17, 2017 7:20 pm

Mountain wrote:Don't be scared to use flexible track as it is much cheaper then sectional track. Yes it does need cutting. Track cutting shears is best for beginners and a set of cheap small files for the ones that have not cut right....


Is a Dremel a good replacement for some specialist shears? I've already got one of these and it would save buying new tools just for the railway.

b308
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Location: North Worcs

Re: Advice

Postby b308 » Fri Feb 17, 2017 8:27 pm

It'll do the job, but for a tenner you'll get the track cutter (Xuron) and it does the job far better and is much less dangerous than a broken high speed cutting disc. Properly used they'll last for ages. Don't skimp, buy one!

kebang
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Re: Advice

Postby kebang » Sat Feb 18, 2017 12:08 am

I use a dremel to cut track without any problem

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Mountain
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Re: Advice

Postby Mountain » Sat Feb 18, 2017 12:31 am

I use both track cutting shears and my mini drill depending on the track that needs to be cut. For using drills make sure you have eye protection, and use those car odium type discs that cut by grinding. Go easy. Take your time. I used to use metal discs but they cut so easily and quickly they are potentially dangerous so I use the carbodium type grinding discs.
Occasionally the discs shatter without warning hence the need for eye protection. Careful handling prolongs the life of the discs. They are cheap to replace so don't worry too much if you shatter one. Go slow. Take it easy.
What I do is use cutting shears for lose track that has not been layed yet or is being layed, and the discs on a drill for track that has been layed and already stuck or pinned in position. This is using each tool for what it does best.

kebang
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Re: Advice

Postby kebang » Sat Feb 18, 2017 5:05 am

Well I think this is the most amount shunting possible in the space! (Remove points you don't want and replace with ST225 curves or ST200 straights as required)
ridicule.jpg
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R610, 00 Hornby Standard Track R610 Straight 1.5". 4
R8072, 00 Hornby Standard Track R8072 Left turnout 6.61". 1
ST200, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST200 Straight 6.61". 10
ST201, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST201 Straight 13.19". 7
ST202, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST202 Straight 3.11". 4
ST203, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST203 Straight 1.61". 4
ST204, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST204 Straight 26.38". 9
ST225, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST225 Curve radius 17.24", angle 22.5º(R2) 9
ST226, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST226 Curve radius 17.24", angle 45º(R2) 4
ST227, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST227 Curve radius 17.24", angle 11.25º(R2) 3
ST238, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST238 Curve radius 33.84", angle 11.25º 1
ST240, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST240 Right turnout 6.61". (manual) 15
ST241, 00/H0 Peco Setrack Code 100 ST241 Left turnout 6.61". (manual) 2

(The 4 xR610 are deliberate - they are fractionally shorter than the peco equivelant. However - as already discussed - flexible straight sections would be the way to go)

harris
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Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2017 1:49 pm

Re: Advice

Postby harris » Tue Feb 21, 2017 1:01 pm

Hi
I am going with the layout below and plan to run 2 trains with 2 controllers - to achieve this do I need to isolate any track? I have marked 3 x circles on the plan - what do these mean?
thank you

Image
I measure 5 times but still end up drilling twice

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Emettman
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Re: Advice

Postby Emettman » Tue Feb 21, 2017 10:49 pm

At first look I can't see the need for two controllers, unless there will be two operators in which case one could hunt the paler sidings while the other shunted the darker ones
For anything else there is really only room for one engine / train to move at a time, though there's certainly reason to have two, or three, engines.

The tracks should be isolated into two section as the colours show, where the circles are drawn.
Additionally, the two pieces of curved track in the centre, which complete the return loop, should be completely isolated off and fed by a separate feed.

Chris
"It's his madness that keeps him sane."

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Bufferstop
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Re: Advice

Postby Bufferstop » Tue Feb 21, 2017 11:20 pm

harris wrote:I measure 5 times but still end up drilling twice

Know how you feel. Over what seemed like eternity the late 1960s early 70s concrete edifice called Birmingham New Street was stripped of the decorative bits so they could make a hole to let the daylight in. It must have been fete that on the day I had to pass through they had removed the cladding from a bit of concrete I'd last seen in 1968 and there staring back at me was the carefully measured hole that should have come through 2metres to the right inside the equipment cupboard. No one told us that the gridlines for the station roof deck started at zero, the ones for the Shopping mall that stood on it started at one :oops:
Growing old, can't avoid it. Growing up, forget it!
My Layout, My Workbench Blog and My Opinions

kebang
Posts: 460
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Location: Bohol, Philippines

Re: Advice

Postby kebang » Wed Feb 22, 2017 4:13 am

When I posted this it was very much a 'first draft'!
Here it is again with two wiring options'.
The top drawing for one moving loco (other locos on the layout are stationary in isolated sidings). When moving into the orange section stop in the orange section. Throw the DPDT switch, then move off.
The bottom drawing is for two moving locos, one in each section (other locos on the layout are stationary in isolated sidings).
When moving between the orange and yellow section all locos, apart from the one in motion, are stationary in isolated sidings. You then try to match the two controllers in speed & direction as the loco crosses the isolation point.
If you are sure that you are only going to have one moving loco then the top option is the easiest.
A word on isolating sections of track. Usually plastic track joiners are used at the point where two pieces of track meet and isolation is required. It can be very difficult to remove existing rail joiners from set track, to the extent that damage can be caused. I prefer to cut straight across the two rails, an inch or so from the point where the sectional tracks join, but leaving the plastic sleepers untouched. The gap can be filled with a dab of glue from a hot glue gun. I used to make this cut successfully with a junior hacksaw, although now I use my dremel.
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