bridge kit?
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bridge kit?
hiya lads, what is the best bridge kit for the garden in 00 gauge? i have my eyes on the daplo one,any good? thanks glen
- 0121modeller
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Re: bridge kit?
glen brooks wrote:what is the best bridge kit for the garden in 00 gauge? i have my eyes on the daplo one,any good?
Hi glen , Do you mean a "Dapol" kit ?
Depends on bridge length required really, with the Wills SS57 "vari plate girder" bridge kit you can make up length of girder assembly to suit.
Peco make a "Warren pattern" / truss girder bridge that also may suit.
What's the span needed to cross & how many tracks will need to be carried ? If the bridge crosses a long span, it'll probably need to have centre supports ?
Also, Have a good look through this thread; viewtopic.php?f=25&t=16973&start=75&st=0&sk=t&sd=a
Dave.
Last edited by 0121modeller on Mon Mar 07, 2011 9:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: bridge kit?
hiya dave ..yep dapol kit, the one thats about 13" long, i was looking at makeing 2 or 3 , palcing them on thin ply, to make a nice span in the garden. was hoping it would be ok for that? and thanks for the link
glen
glen
- 0121modeller
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- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2008 1:16 am
- Location: Erdington, Birmingham,.... but can also be found at various railway bridges !
Re: bridge kit?
Yes the Dapol kit would be ok I would've thought, Peco also do a similar type of bridge.
Plywood trackbed for bridge will be okay as long as you varnish or paint it regularly, (use oil based paint for best results) top, bottom & sides if possible, but especially the topside as for weather protection, re-painting every 6 months should ensure you have a long lasting bridge build to equal bridge quality of Thomas Telford & I.K.Brunel !
Exterior grade 9mm or 12mm thick plywood would be good to use.
When you buy plywood just make sure there are'nt any visible loose layers/sandwiches of plywood, if so, reject it & pick a decent piece with ply layers soundly bonded,
You can recognise "loose ply layers" by strokeing 4 fingers accross face of sheet (across the direction of grain, not with direction of grain, or you risk getting splinters !) ,
in a quiet area, listen carefully for change of sound your fingers strokeing reveals, thus indicating loose layers of ply that have'nt bonded the whole sheet area.
Dave.
Plywood trackbed for bridge will be okay as long as you varnish or paint it regularly, (use oil based paint for best results) top, bottom & sides if possible, but especially the topside as for weather protection, re-painting every 6 months should ensure you have a long lasting bridge build to equal bridge quality of Thomas Telford & I.K.Brunel !

Exterior grade 9mm or 12mm thick plywood would be good to use.
When you buy plywood just make sure there are'nt any visible loose layers/sandwiches of plywood, if so, reject it & pick a decent piece with ply layers soundly bonded,
You can recognise "loose ply layers" by strokeing 4 fingers accross face of sheet (across the direction of grain, not with direction of grain, or you risk getting splinters !) ,
in a quiet area, listen carefully for change of sound your fingers strokeing reveals, thus indicating loose layers of ply that have'nt bonded the whole sheet area.
Dave.
Scratchbuilding 4mm scale JXA scrapwagons ; - viewtopic.php?f=6&t=37620
Scratchbuilt & kit built grappler claw cranes ; - viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36342
Scratchbuilt & kit built grappler claw cranes ; - viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36342
- thomas the plank engine
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Re: bridge kit?
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h ... CFIQ9QEwBQ
Using this for my bridge when it eventually get outside, Rovex I believe.
Have taken the original ply base out and have used 4 x 1 inch timber as the base and screwed the sides on thereby can make it as long as I want, in my case I have a double span long and twin tracked.
Ian
Using this for my bridge when it eventually get outside, Rovex I believe.
Have taken the original ply base out and have used 4 x 1 inch timber as the base and screwed the sides on thereby can make it as long as I want, in my case I have a double span long and twin tracked.
Ian
Re: bridge kit?
I have made several G scale bridges. But I have the advanatage of having a saw bench and am able to mill up the 'timbers' for a bridge. My first saw bench was a box upsidedown with my 1/4" Black and Decker skill saw in it and the blade coming through the bottom, with a length of wood clamped to make a fence to guide the timber.
You do need to use a waterproof glue for construction. The crux of stopping spliutting etc is to have the blade very close to the deck [ by using the saw to cut the hole] ... on my current saw bench I gently lower an offcut of ply onto the blade until it has quietly cut a hole to match the blade when I need another base. For most cutting there is about a quarter inch gap either side of the blade but for small stuff 3<5mm even 10mm you need close support to the blade.
My first bridges, admittedly for an HO layout were made after the fashion of an aeroplane kit with the plan drawn on a sheet of ply with brads to hold the wood in place until the glue dried. The bridge sticks to the ply with surplus glue but easilly lifted with careful use of a craft knife. First thing to do is to make a template for the trestles. Once they are made joining them together is relatively easy.
Obviously I am a person who buys a 'kit' when I cannot do it myself
You do need to use a waterproof glue for construction. The crux of stopping spliutting etc is to have the blade very close to the deck [ by using the saw to cut the hole] ... on my current saw bench I gently lower an offcut of ply onto the blade until it has quietly cut a hole to match the blade when I need another base. For most cutting there is about a quarter inch gap either side of the blade but for small stuff 3<5mm even 10mm you need close support to the blade.
My first bridges, admittedly for an HO layout were made after the fashion of an aeroplane kit with the plan drawn on a sheet of ply with brads to hold the wood in place until the glue dried. The bridge sticks to the ply with surplus glue but easilly lifted with careful use of a craft knife. First thing to do is to make a template for the trestles. Once they are made joining them together is relatively easy.
Obviously I am a person who buys a 'kit' when I cannot do it myself

Re: bridge kit?
Anymore suggestions?
I am not able to find it in my area.
I am not able to find it in my area.
- Metadyneman
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Re: bridge kit?
The older style R78 Triang-Hornby Girder bridge is a nice sturdy model and is the one shown in the link by "Thomas the Plank engine" above. I have one on my garden layout, picked it up mint & boxed off eBay for about £20 and it really looks the part. See picture of it below on my garden line with a DMU trundling over it.
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A bargain is something you really don't need at a price that's completely irresistible!!
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Re: bridge kit?
the sides on thereby can make it as long as I want, in my case I have a double span long and twin tracked.
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