New Railway Modellers Forums

Photos please.

That's the better idea. or here is a worse one https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/locomotive/lcp36/ I would have said a better one myself. To try and repair the old Bachmann ones is nigh on impossible if mot impossible. Yes.. I meant "worse" as in building chassis kits is a road to hell th...

Yes it is. If fed with AC the charging time will double if a bridge is not used, ok Don't forget what causes the high flyback voltage, it is when the switch is opened and therefore when there is no circuit via the CDU. By its nature the the CDU sends a pulse of current which suddenly collapses and ...

2. Get rid of the 1N4004 diode on the input. If using DC you don't need it, and if using AC you need to replace it with a full bridge rectifier (4x 1N4004 will do if you have them). A single diode will drop the voltage by .7V. A bridge rectifier will drop the voltage by 1.4V. A bridge rectifier is ...

meehow wrote:A basic starter set @ £50 contains all the above elements with the addition of a locomotive and 2 wagons.

What specific set are you looking at?

Hi! I have built a CDU following the diagram here: http://talkingelectronics.com/projects/CDU-2/images/Cap_Dis_Circuit.gif Only difference with the one I made is I used three 4700uf 35v capacitors instead, cus I thought that would make it even more powerful, but it does not seem to work well, and i...

My time is getting more limited so I'm happy to move on with more mainstream ones that will work out of the box with seep/peco point motors if possible. Well I think If I was buying an accessory decoder for solenoid motors these days I would go for the Cobalt range . There is also this which I have...

Do you have any technical details on the point decoder setup?
What model is the decoder? Is there a manual?
What voltage powers the CDU?

Can you adjust the decoder output "on" time or increase the CDU supply voltage?

Hello William, welcome to NRM.

have you seen this sight http://trains4africa.co.za/ ?

Bigmet wrote:That's the better idea.

or here is a worse one https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/locomotive/lcp36/

here is a link to a sevice sheet
http://www.lendonsmodelshop.co.uk/pdf/B ... 02-6-2.pdf
is this the right one?

Journeyman wrote:And how are they phased left to right?

one side should be at 90 degrees to the other (quatered).

I've built several Model Power kits using Revell Contacta Professional glue. As far as I'm aware they are "normal" plastic, although I suppose the formula may be slightly different in different countries.

Back on the bench the “L” beams are screwed and glued. Wow, those could carry a real train! What do you guys call the room with the railway in? Well mine's in the "home-office". If it didn't have an office in it I'd probably call it "the train room", although that is still a bit...

On a side note, you might find standard brightness red or yellow LEDs easier on your eyes (and wallet) especially on a panel that you are going to look at frequently. White and blue light is a strain to focus on.
https://www.liquidleds.com.au/blogs/new ... r-vision-1

ok so according to the datasheet , 30mA is the absolute maximum forward current. I would aim for 20mA As you can see from the first graph on page 3, when the forward current is 20mA the forward voltage drop is 3.2V so 8.8V/0.020A = 440R. power = 0.176W so a 1/4W resistor will suffice. but this assum...