New Railway Modellers Forums

I agree entirely with Bigmet's analysis: check the bracket and see if it is lifting the front of the bogie slightly. I had to do this with one of my Hornby N15s. It only needed a slight bend downwards on the bracket's mounting arm to fix the problem (no spring necessary).

Thanks Richard ... typo corrected. A small typo made a large difference to the timescale!

The fact that all these years later that milling is still there is down to what was done to them after milling. Triang case hardened the wheels, they are pretty much bullet proof. You might manage to grind down the flanges but getting rid of the milled ridges is almost impossible. Many years ago my...

FS123 on your CK that you are doing up is there a door on the corridor side of the coach that lines up with the compartment having the "stretcher window". As having got the patient on board, there has to be some provision for getting the patient off, if the other side of the coach was nex...

Yes, 1/50 is way too big for OO (1/76) scale. You don't say what time period you are looking at, Ian. You could also look at the Langley range of white metal kits if you are prepared to kit-build. These are mostly from the 1940s to 1960s. (Corrected! - thanks Richard). If you are modelling the timbe...

b308 wrote:This one I suspect. For those interested in early Triang this site is worth a look, especially for nostalgia trips!

http://www.tri-ang.co.uk/rpdset.html

That is indeed the set. Thanks for the link ... and the memory.

I had various toy trains in my early childhood, including a diecast 0-6-0T (possibly Budgie or Lone Star?), but the one that really started me off came when I was nine. I was given a Triang primary series train set, with an oval of Series 3 track, a maroon steeple cab 0-4-0 electric loco (with plast...

I can't fully answer your question, but it helps to know that each Faller vehicle has a built-in reed switch and magnet, allowing each one to be stopped by a buried electro-magnet and to trigger other events with their own magnet (perhaps with a reed switch buried under the road).

There are quite a few other interesting videos of model layouts of a high standard from the same person, including some "cab view" runs.

When joining two lengths of flexi-track on a curve, I always tweak the rail ends with a pair of pliers to put a permanent bend just in the rail ends to smooth the transition from one piece to the next. You might still be able to do this even with the track fixed down.

I used a very similar technique to the OP for my earlier layout, but haven't actually got as far as road markings on my current one. One minor difference for me was that I painted the paper I used first, with some white semi-gloss enamel, which prevented the paper from absorbing any moisture or disc...

Weight distribution can be a problem with these locomotives, as well as a lack of weight anyway. I have plans to eventually replace the tank weights with real lead - the manufacturers aren't allowed to use this any more, but we can. Also, check that the balance of the model is as correct as you can ...

I think Bigmet has ht the nail on the head. The question is a bit too open-ended to give definitive answers. When I went for the NCE Power Cab I was looking at the ergonomics of the hand-held controllers, plus the future connectivity and expansion prospects (I later upgraded toa Power Pro system, us...

I wish I could come to this one. I have friends in Manchester and a cousin outside Warrington I can stay with, but it's a long, long way to go just for a model railway show!

I tried MEK on these and it still didn't seem to want to stick. I gave up on the plastic 'wire' and decided I preferred the idea of railings, so used 20 thou plastic rod, which did glue nicely with MEK. This may not be the effect that the OP wanted, but it works for me. https://live.staticflickr.com...