New Railway Modellers Forums

Jules59. I'm pretty sure Roger (RJ) is right: I remember cutting electrofrog wires when I was setting up my 00-gauge layout, but I don't remember having to do that at all when I built my N-gauge layout.

Although I don't understand the specifics of the diodes and resistor, I think your problem is that capacitors in series have an overall less capacitance than each of the individuals. If you want to add capacitances you have to connect them in parallel, which means that they all have to be rated for ...

I would persevere with Electrofrog if I were you. Whether you're running DC or DCC there's much less chance of 'dead' spots. The need to "cut wires and solder additional wires" is so that the frog and its two immediate bits of rail is isolated from all other parts of the points, and can th...

When laying my N-gauge track I used OO-gauge pins (my previous layout was OO-gauge) to temporarily hold it in place while the glue set. They're much more robust than the N-gauge ones and, IIRC, I used a 1mm drill bit and didn't drill full depth. I then pushed the pins in with a pair of pliers.

I've never done it myself, but word elsewhere on this forum https://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/Forums/viewtopic.php?t=25759 is that code 55 and code 80 can be joined together with regular rail joiners and a small amount of packing under the sleepers. Settrack is, I believe, code 80.

Another vote for Peco code 55 track, and then buying rolling stock ad hoc. In my opinion the ability to flex the track to suit your requirements exactly, rather than messing aobut with fixed Settrack radii, is well worth it. Another minor benefit of flexible track is that you don't need so many powe...

Just curious, why does it need two diodes per set of LEDs? Surely a single diode will block reverse current?

I've got a basic understanding of electrics but by no means an expert. I didn't think that you could use a resistor on multiple led's but this morning connected an old pound shop string to a 12v supply using a 470 resistor and yes they worked fine. That's good news for me as I can run all the light...

.... I'll give it a shot using a resistor, not a problem if it doesn't work but if it does it means I can use one power source for all the lights rather than having to plug in the battery pack too. Dave A resistor will work, it's simply a matter of knowing what value resistor. If you calculate what...

A neat idea, but there's one thing I'd like to clarify about the diagram: Even though the three resistors are given different numbers, I presume they're all the same value, depending on the operating voltage and the LED characteristics. But if the LEDs have different characteristics (perhaps differe...

Like Flashbang I can't help with IC2 length, but I can tell you that servo leads can be quite long if necessary. I use servos in my RC model aircraft, as well as for my points, and in my aircraft the leads can be maybe 4ft long. When extending them beyond the supplied servo lead length I use heavier...

I hadn't heard of decoders resetting themselves. IIRC there was a wrong point setting which caused my controller to trip out, but it was one of the other locos, not the Deltic. I didn't check to see if the Deltic had reverted to address #03 but, as I mentioned before, when I re-powered the layout ne...

Thanks for all those tips guys. Lead, or tungsten, shot and superglue seem like the simplest.

Just a note in case anyone else has this problem: Yesterday my N-gauge Deltic was running around my track for quite a while, as my wife had expressed an interest in how to operate my railway. In the meantime I ran several other locos to show her how it all works. At the end of the session I parked a...

I normally cut it with a Stanley knife I don't have an anvil to make it thinner, but I suppose I could cut off thin slivers about 1mm thick and then cut them into suitable lengths.