New Railway Modellers Forums

Has anyone had a good look at the Push pull coach set from Hornby? What is the detail like on the model?

J

Can anyone recommend a good book on garden railways? I am looking to get one as a gift for someone who has shown an interest in a garden railway. I tried to find one at Warley, but couldn't find a single book on the subject on any of the stands.

J

Who produces that diesel? The diesel is made by Liliput (Bachmann). They make two versions, an epoc III version from the Rhein-Sieg-Eisenbahn and an epoc V version form the Zillertalbahn. I have the Epoc III version. Today I had it run on the test track at Warley and it was beautiful to watch it tr...

FINISHED! Well, stage 1, having a runnable functioning (if untested) module. Had a bit of fun getting the glue to set, and have resorted to a couple of small screws to help the foam board stay in place, but I am quite happy with it. When I can get some of the thingies for making the wiring pretty, I...

I am hoping to eventually move over to using motorised point control, but for now while testing my track I am looking at playing with push/pull wire control. What wire do people use for this?

J

I would like to put in a welding effect that will shine under the door of a workshop. Does anyone have a circuit diagram for such a circuit ?

Thanks

J

I've been working on this layout now for nearly a year, but I finally feel I am getting close enough to be able to post here and have something to show. The layout is actually a set of independent modules built to FREMO* standards. But the first module to get anywhere is this one, Module 5. It is a ...

I am curious about the track you used on Cramdin Yard, I notice from earlier posts that you are using SMP track, are you using the copper clad point kits, or the plastic based kits? What did you use for the plain track?

J

Saw this layout in the flesh today at Tonbridge, it looked really impressive, and much bigger in real life than I thought it was from the pictures here.

Cracking layout.

J

I use wing bolts (and corresponding wing nuts) in slightly over sized holes (M6 bolts in 8mm holes, or M8 bolts in 10mm holes). This technique scales very well and has been used with modular layouts of several hundred modules in size.

Cheap, simple, effective.

J

poliss wrote:If I were to use the flame method I would take the top off and keep the bottom well away.

The needle itself separates from the pot quite nicely. I am not a complete idiot, I didn't do the flame thing with the needle still attached...

J

Just hold a cigarette lighter (or other source of gentle flame) to the needle for no more than 2 seconds , this always does the trick of freeing the stopper pin from needle for me, just ensure you dont apply flame for more than 2 seconds as the contacta liquid is flammable. Dave. Just tried this us...

I have a tub of Revell Contacta glue for assembling plastic kits, but the needle appears to have become blocked. It is a 12.5g tub.

Does anyone know if it is possible to get replacements?

J

If you are starting out in narrow gauge and you are not to set upon modelling British image stuff in 009, consider modelling in H0e. Roco sell a starter kit including everything you need to get started, alternatively there are a number of manufacturers making ready to run stock. It is a lot simpler ...

I am pondering treating myself to a bachmann Class 3MT.

Before I do, I was wondering if someone who owned one already would be kind enough to take a photo of the loco without the body on it? I am curious as to how much space there is under there for fitting a DCC decoder.

Thanks

J