New Railway Modellers Forums

4 pin jst leads are also cheap and easy to fit.

I was given a pack to try but found them too stiff and they caused too much friction.
I prefer to use pcb and guitar strings.
I did this last week on an old Bachmann Fowler tender after converting the loco split chassis for dcc..

I have never liked the 'Kadee shuffle', having to stop over a magnet at the head of a siding, shuffle, then continue propelling stock along the siding. Something like the Dingham or DG coupling ( there may be others I am unaware of) can uncouple and latch into delay mode without having to stop. In m...

This looks like it but says it went for £125.00... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dynamis-Wireless-DCC-Control-System-/154884468281 Another 'Brand New in Sealed Box' went for £130.00... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bachmann-DCC-E-Z-Dynamis-spectrum-Wireless-Digital-Control-System-sealed-pack-/313894878081...

Only saw Way Out West with Laurel and Hardy.

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Not seen it yet so thanks for the warning.

Not sure, but are they from the Hachette Build A Model Railway magazine?

Yes, they are..

If they are they will be code 75.

No, they aren't.

I once used the axle hub from an old cycle wheel as a turntable bearing.

I find elongating the fixing holes in the seep helps with centralising the switch.

I give in, what does NFF mean?

Don't waste money on far eastern plywood, this was flat as a pancake when I brought it home 24hrs earlier...

I wasted money on two sheets of this when I could have bought one sheet of Baltic Birch.

On my 16x8 shed I ended up removing the windows and installing extra studs and boarded them over after many times trying to stop water ingress. They were blanked out anyway to stop the sunlight. I also removed the feeble double doors and installed a single frame and more robust door with mortise loc...

Remember to remove the bonding links to the V rails. My plan was to leave these in place, cut isolating breaks in the closure rails the other side and use a separate polarity switch for the live frog. So the whole point is fully converted into electrofrog. Ah yes, cutting the turnout in half did th...

I've been looking into this as I may need to use a setrack Y point as well as a double slip to make my MPD work. How about simply grinding out the plastic part, then cutting and filing a triangular section of brass/nickel-silver/steel to fit the gap and soldering it in place? Seems simpler than pul...

I think he we was referring to this tunnel mouth....