New Railway Modellers Forums

Within your budget, I don't think you can go wrong with NCE. Easy to use and a good display.Can be expanded as required. You don't say where you are, but a trip to a DCC specialist is always worth a visit. They should have all makes available for you to try.

If you are set on 8x4 then I would suggest that 2 off 4x2 boards would be better. Easier to handle and can be quickly linked together with suitcase latches or butt hinges with a removable pin. And they can be lighter.

The sky's the limit,along with imagination, on the narrow gauge. Have a look at this site http://www.hglw.co.uk /. I can vouch for the quality of these kits as I've built several, albeit all with 4 wd. I've had some Faller track outside for about 3 years with no problems. The brass rail weathers to ...

I would recommend you read any books by the late Peter Jones. Well known for thinking outside the box. Not current,but easily found. If narrow gauge, look at the 16 mm Association, an excellent group and very good magazines. Loco's and stock can be very cheap in 16 mm n.g as a small battery loco can...

[quote="b308"]Catweasel, "wiring chips to locos" is not "easy enough" - it depends on the loco you are trying to wire up and how they are set up in the first place, sweeping (and inaccurate) statements like that are not a all helpful for anyone thinking of changing from...

I'm back in the hobby after many moons away. I chose DCC because it's the way forward. Wiring chips into loco's is easy enough and fine tuning of the performance is brilliant. No more 100 mph spuds! My loco's are all OO gauge tiddlers, and sound, or lack of, is not an issue. No one does sound files ...

Xuron cutters have no problem cutting it.

Ref. traction tyres. There's a product called Bullfrog Snot which may sort out traction problems. If you type the name into Google you'll find suppliers and more info.

Chassis complete. It's wired for DC at the moment because I will probably swap the present motor and gearbox for a High Level Quadriver and Mashima can.

Personally,I'd use brass countersink screws. But, I always use a 50 watt iron instead of a 25 watt one, due to amount of material involved. Get the iron good and hot,plenty of flux, I use 12% phosphoric acid flux, and go in hard and fast so as not to damage sleepers.

Kitchen base units are ruled out on cost grounds and I want to leave clear access to the sockets. What I am going to do though is put legs on the 'boards I have, then build more 'boards for the back wall and other side when required. These will have a gap of 70 mm to the wall.The whole room is lined...

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a48/Catweasel/Interior_zpsyrq1zhca.jpg :D Sparky misunderstood my requirements for sockets and fitted 16 of them with a circuit breaker between each pair. Total overkill, but safe. Didn't charge extra either. Next step is to put legs on the existing 'boards and buil...

The way I'm thinking is that, once the room is painted and wired, I'll put a batten round the walls for one edge of the baseboards to sit on, with a small lip to retain them. Then legs can be fitted as the boards are installed,triangulated back to the floor to keep them clear of feet. It would then ...

Pots Lane Expansion.jpg Due to the availability of the new room, the Pots Lane Management have decided that they can expand. The new line is based on the Wantage plan by Giles Barnaby. I do have room for it and can do it with 3 new baseboards. I haven't even got the room ready yet,but there's no ha...

What style of baseboard are you going to have ,if you know what I mean ,I E ,,centre operating well ? I've already got the 'boards from Tim Horn. Nothing massive, 6 feet x 18". DCC operated. NCE Powercab controller. I'm not bothering with sound as my loco's aren't big enough for it. OO gauge, ...