Model Railway Electrics - Light Signals

Through the years railway signalling has changed from mechanical armed signals (which are still used in some places today) to the model light signals which are not all that different from traffic signals. If you are specifically modelling a time in railway history then you will know what signals to buy. But if you intend to model both Steam and Modern trains then the decision is up to you. Steam trains look more at home with the arm signals, were as Modern intercity trains look more at home with light signals. Even today the old signals can be seen on the Peterborough to Lincoln line, which deals with both freight and small passenger trains.

There are things to consider when deciding what and how much signalling you are going to incorporate into your layout, with one big factor being cost. Hornby light signals are £13.50 each not including switch. The cheapest light signal is made by Gaugemaster which comes with a switch and costs £7.00.

(Gaugemaster (£7.00) left, Hornby (£13.50) right)

I'm not keen on the look of either of these signals, with their wide profile, or their cost (especially Hornby's £13.50) so I decided the build my own. This is fine if you have the time and patience, but if not you are going to have to buy them.

You can also make them with yellow lights for distance signals. I used 5V LED's fixed up to a battery pack (6V). I used a straw for the pole although now I have found some smaller metal piping which is better. If you would like to build your own signals, you can buy the LED's, battery pack, switch etc from my shop website www.newmodellersshop.co.uk. Below is the circuit diagram for a signal.

If you want to buy a manufactured signal, buy the Gaugemaster model as it looks the same and also comes with a switch.

The arm signals are cheaper, for example Hornby's single arm signal costs just £5.70 (RRP) (£4.49 from New Modellers Shop), but have the problem of needing to be controlled by hand. Hornby used to make a motor for them but I don't think they do anymore. You will have to take this in to consideration when deciding were to place these signals.

One problem I found was that nothing not even signals could be permanently connected to my base board as it was hinged on the wall for storage. This presented lots of problems like how to hold them up and easy quick ways of connecting the leads. I solved this by fitting long leads on them so I could leave them connected but pull them out and to the side, so they didn't get crushed. I also drilled a hole in the board to hold the signals which where smaller at the bottom than the top, to stop the signal falling straight through. I power my signals from battery packs situated under my base board. I used batteries because my signals use LED's which use very little power. For normal filament lights you need a mains adapter as they would quickly run down batteries.

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