How to Respray your Model Railway Locomotives (Part 2)

Author: Mark - "Transrail" (forum member)

For this part of the tutorial I will be continuing with the Heljan Class 47 which I used in Part 1.

This part shows the methods I use to apply primer to the loco body. Any good airbrush instructions will follow this practice, however, this article is intended as a guide only. Therefore, always follow the airbrush manufacturers instructions carefully.

IMPORTANT:
Please read the ‘You Will Need’ sections at the beginning of each Part to ensure you will be able to complete the tutorial successfully (or so that you know what you will need to purchase in order to complete the tutorial).

NOTE:
24 Hours (minimum) must be left between coats to allow the paint to dry and to cure to the loco surface. Taking shortcuts will result in poor results. When I say coats... I mean, primer is one coat. Yellow cab sides is another coat. BR Blue is another coat. Etc.

Part 2: Primer

You will need the following before starting Part 2 of this tutorial:

• An airbrush. Usually, the more expensive the better! You will get what you pay for. Mine is a Badger and cost approx £89.00

• Primer - I use Railmatch 'Universal Primer White'. No. 506. Cost - £1.80

• A roll of modellers masking take. Tamiya or Eurostar are both very good makes. Approx cost - £1.50

• A mask - spray is dangerous!

• Enamel Thinners - I use a tin from Howes that costs £3.10.

• A gas canister - Mine's a large size and cost approx - £7.00

• The cardboard tube when your kitchen roll runs out.

• Your loco body.

First thing is to mix the paint so it is ready for the airbrush. Your airbrush may come with a jar that attaches to the airbrush to hold the paint. Pour your primer into the jar, only filling the jat 1/3 full. Then add the same amount of thinners so the mix fills the jar 2/3 full.

NOTE: Make sure you don't over fill the jar!! Your manual will state the maximum amount you should fill the jar for your airbrush!

Now use a 'stiry stick' to stir the mix thoroughly. It should thin up pretty quickly. Do not attach the jar to the air brush yet!!

Attach the airbrush to the gas canister (following instructions on the canister). I usually leave the canister out in the sun while I prepare myself a drink, etc. Alternatively, if it's cold, I leave the canister in a bucket of warn-hot water for about 5 minutes. This simply builds presure in the canister and makes for longer spraying periods.

NOTE: Do not leave the canister out in the sun for long periods of time. It goes without saying, there's enough gas in one of these canisters to blow the roof of your house!

Ok, we're ready to spray!

I usually (as the airbrush is clean) dip the airbrush tube into the thinners bottle/jar and attempt to spray. This just confirms that the airbrush is working correctly before we attach the paint jar.

I have masked the ends of mine. If you remember from Part one... I cheated a little to keep the yellow ends. You won't need to do this.

Now place the kitchen roll into the underside of the loco body and make sure it is in securely. Once a covering of paint is applied, there's no touching the loco.

So... attach your paint jar to the airbrush!
 

Spraying Technique!

This picture shows the technique used to spray the loco. Your manual will say the same. This technique applies to all coats/colours. Do not be tempted to start spraying from the centre of the loco, you will get blotches and spitting marks. Basically, hold the airbrush trigger before you move over the loco and release the trigger after you have passed the end of the loco. This gives a nice even finish.

The following pictures show the technique at various stages. The key to a good respray is to do a little at a time. Don't expect the loco to be white in 5 minutes.

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Once you are happy that the loco body is totally covered in primer (get outside in the best possible light), leave the loco to dry for at least 24 hours. Even if the paint appears dry, the paint won't have properly cured to the loco body.

But hold on, you're not done yet!!!

You need to clean the airbrush thoroughly. If you don't, you might as well chuck it in the bin. Use a clean jay cloth (or similar) with a little thinners on, to clean out the jar. When the jar is totally clean, fill it 1/3 full with thinners and attach it to the airbrush. Spray the thinners onto a piece of cardboard, etc. just to clean out any left over paint in the airbrush. Once you are happy that it is perfectly clean, you will need to clean out the jar again and also wipe round the airbrush to remove any stray paint.

Look after your airbrush and you'll be able to use it time and time again.

That's it for now.... Now you can look forward to Part 3.

So... would anyone like to guess what the livery of this class 47 will be?
 

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