Dad-1's April 2015 Challenge Thread

[Dad-1]

No I Don't have the time .........
However in respect of Alex's work and those taking part how could I refuse ?
I want to make these anyway !! It's just the time scale that has me worried.
So PERHAPS (only) I shall try to get one or both of these finished in the available time.
At the princely sum of £6.19 each I will attempt to join in.



I also thank all those taking part, helping make this a more dynamic forum.

Geoff T.

[Admin4]

Thank you for taking part i have updated the index on the main thread

[Bufferstop]

Geoff - get stocked up with "liquid gravity" or fluid lead if you want to run them in a train.

[Dad-1]

Hi Bufferstop,

Yes even the Hornby Lowmac is not a reliable runner unless placed towards the rear of
any train.
As these were used for machinery it is my intention to permanently fix a diecast farm
bit of gubbins, perhaps a baler on one and something under a tarp on the other. I know
such weight won't be low, but it should (I hope) prove adequate.

!st big problem ........ Axle sets !! The original (Airfix ?) kit was designed for plastic one
piece wheel & axle sets. These had longer axles by about 1.5 mm. The nice small wheels
on steel axles now supplied are great ..... only they are of the modern standard length and
if made with the axleboxes at 90 degrees to the wagon ... just fall out !!
Yes I can work around it - BUT why should I have to ? I have done an email to Dapol, but on
experience I don't expect a reply.

Just as well I checked this before April - I can plan ahead now for when I put glue to plastic.

Geoff T.

[Dad-1]

Still deep in thought !!
Do I cut the axles and join with a home made muff ?
Do I await the 2 mm silver steel and produce my own correct length one piece axles ?
Do I produce my own inner axle box to take the wheel sets as supplied ?

I might decide early in April !!

Geoff T.

[Emettman]

I'd be going for option 3, unless I had some tube of exactly the right diameter to ensure that the axles produced by option 1 were automatically and assuredly dead straight.

Chris

[Dad-1]

Hi Chris,

Sort of option 3, or in truth an option 4 !!
Yesterday I was looking for some figures I have tucked away somewhere, but have yet to find and
fell upon a packet of brass needle bearing inserts I'd forgotten I had.
I had to open up the holes in the Dapol parts with a 2.0 mm drill bit until they sank to the shoulder.
They were now pushing the frames out slightly, but being a butcher put the mini-drill cutting disc on
the axle needle points, taking a mm + off each side. They now fit in zero play, but at least the frames
sit upright ans wheels turn quite easily.



April start ........ jumping the gun, but I didn't know it would work !!

Geoff T.

[Emettman]

Nice.
You could sink the bearings in slightly more with a light touch of a soldering iron, but that's one of those things which works wonderfully when it goes well , and disastrous when it goes badly.

I've done the equivalent, when desperate, but I'd not *recommend* it to any one else. Only mention it.

Chris

[flying scotsman123]

I gave them a good bashing in with a hammer - didn't bother gluing them in after that, completely jammed in!

[Dad-1]

Sorry if I've not posted much on anyones threads - I'm trying to do some modelling !!
The second Lowmac, had deeper 2 mm holes & slight countersinking with a 3 mm drill
all done with a finger held drills ..... sore fingers now, but hey all worked out fine.
Even stuck enough lead under one to probably run well without a load.

Anyway back to glue sniffing .....

Geoff T.

[carnehan]

As per usual Geoff you are going for neatness and precision - I salute your patience in that endeavour. As for finger pain, you will have to add a thimble to your tool kit to armour yourself next time.

Paul

[cowjam]

a packet of brass needle bearing inserts

Could you let me know what these are? Sounds useful for adding proper wheels to my cardboard models.

[Admin4]

they are also known as Axle Bearings

they are a small 'cup' shaped bit of brass that you can install between the wheel and the frame - they reduce friction / resistance and help the rolling stock roll freely and can improve running of kits and old wagons etc

they come in two options a plain one example

and shouldered example with a nice close up image

you can see above dad-1 has installed one in the plastic wagon kit ready to assemble and take the wheels

[Dad-1]

Hi cowjam,

I'll add a picture later - all away in the loft at the moment.

I've jumped the gun slightly, in fact these lowmacs are so simple that apart from finding out how to use
the as supplied wheel sets they're a 10 minute job (that takes me a few hours).
Number of parts 15, that includes the 2 axle sets !! Can't add the brake levers, or buffers until after painting.
meaning your main build is just 9 pieces, OH, of course +2 brass bearings you need to find yourself !!



As usual you need to find how to add couplings & supply your own parts - ignore the supplied coupling arrangement
as it's not a current system.
I've already decided to cyno glue in NEM pockets without any articulation. I tried one wagon with couplings held
in place with BlueTack and it reversed a 6 van train through a crossover without any problem. All the more impressive
as the wagon I used had no additional weight added.
I hate painting and that's about all I have to do ............... although a tarp over a load is something I want to do.

Geoff T.

[Dad-1]

Be blowed if I could remember ....
But had to get something out of my loft to run at club tonight.
Here we are "Romford", can't remember where I got them from,
but I'm certain an on-line search will reveal traders with them.



Hope this helps.

Geoff T.