It looks like a lot of people have ditched this item, sad really as it was full of promise.bushrat wrote:Yes indeed,
And to make matters worse, everybody seems to have vanished, not just on this forum, but RMweb has updated to a new website, and this topic hasnt been transferred as yet.
Wot are we to do! he cried, clenching his paws in anguish............................
Bushrat
Partwork Flying Scotsman
Re: Partwork Flying Scotsman
Re: Partwork Flying Scotsman
Hi all among other projects on my work bench , still building mine up to mag 87 as a subcriber so its a little bit slow and i can't get to gripps with posting pics on here.
Dave
Dave
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Nick Hanson
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Fri Jul 24, 2009 12:15 pm
Re: Partwork Flying Scotsman
I've decided to put it all in a box and wait and see the problems before I start building. I've also picked up a few bits here and there at shows to improve some of the components - such as some Derek Mundy heavy duty crank pins and some milled crank rods from Premier. I want to run mine
Nick
Nick
Re: Partwork Flying Scotsman
This. Patience is a virtue (and it's about the only one I've got).I've decided to put it all in a box and wait and see the problems before I start building.
Re: Partwork Flying Scotsman
Again, I have Done Stuff.
Splashers fitted.
More laminating of bits of valve gear.
A set of bits to stick to the wheels. I'll leave doing that for a while until I get some Slaters axles to replace the wobbly ones Hachette supply.
Splashers fitted.
More laminating of bits of valve gear.
A set of bits to stick to the wheels. I'll leave doing that for a while until I get some Slaters axles to replace the wobbly ones Hachette supply.
Re: Partwork Flying Scotsman
Hi,
SirMeliot -
When I received the various bits and pieces for the shuffling stuff, I had a bit of a problem in identifying the material as did some of my buds (it looked too silvery for NS and looked a bit like something steelish). So I tried combinations of flux and solder on spare bits of the etch to see if anything worked/didn't work. And nothing worked.
If I was wanting blobs of solder then everything would be fine but for the life of me I couldn't get anything to take to it, eg. it wouldn't tin. So I was just wondering if you had any problems with laminating your rods?
DJH have implied (via email) that the valve gear, etc. is NS but it doesn't behave like any NS I've ever soldered.
Any clues would be appreciated.
B
SirMeliot -
When I received the various bits and pieces for the shuffling stuff, I had a bit of a problem in identifying the material as did some of my buds (it looked too silvery for NS and looked a bit like something steelish). So I tried combinations of flux and solder on spare bits of the etch to see if anything worked/didn't work. And nothing worked.
If I was wanting blobs of solder then everything would be fine but for the life of me I couldn't get anything to take to it, eg. it wouldn't tin. So I was just wondering if you had any problems with laminating your rods?
DJH have implied (via email) that the valve gear, etc. is NS but it doesn't behave like any NS I've ever soldered.
Any clues would be appreciated.
B
Re: Partwork Flying Scotsman
I think they're stainless steel.
Anyway I use Gaugemaster Brass Flux which is what I had lying around. I tried tinning with some other flux I had and it wouldn't take at all. The Gaugemaster stuff tinned OK if you get the metal hot enough.
I only did the first rod by tinning and sweating though. For all the rest I gave the joining faces a rub with fine wet & dry and then painted on plenty of flux and put them together. Then touching a loaded 40W soldering iron to the edge results in the flux drawing the solder into the join through to the other side.
BTW I gave the drill bits I've been using to align things a coating of oil so the solder wouldn't stick to them.
Anyway I use Gaugemaster Brass Flux which is what I had lying around. I tried tinning with some other flux I had and it wouldn't take at all. The Gaugemaster stuff tinned OK if you get the metal hot enough.
I only did the first rod by tinning and sweating though. For all the rest I gave the joining faces a rub with fine wet & dry and then painted on plenty of flux and put them together. Then touching a loaded 40W soldering iron to the edge results in the flux drawing the solder into the join through to the other side.
BTW I gave the drill bits I've been using to align things a coating of oil so the solder wouldn't stick to them.
Re: Partwork Flying Scotsman
More progress!
Bogie components
Simple fold-up construction.
Side pieces with nicely etched rivets are attached to the basic structure.
Bogie components
Simple fold-up construction.
Side pieces with nicely etched rivets are attached to the basic structure.
Re: Partwork Flying Scotsman
I seem to remember that C&L/Carrs had some flux and/or solder specifically for steel but their web site appears to be a bit dicky (freezes when loading) so no joy there. I had a root around some other sites and into some books and this stuff appears to be the proper gear - but then I saw the price. I think I'll wait until that web site loads properly.
http://uk.farnell.com/multicore-solder/ ... /dp/629455
B
http://uk.farnell.com/multicore-solder/ ... /dp/629455
B
Re: Partwork Flying Scotsman
A positive whirlwind of progress.
Bits for the trailing bogie. Also on the etch are the 'weights' for the wheels.
Bits for the trailing bogie. Also on the etch are the 'weights' for the wheels.
Re: Partwork Flying Scotsman
I now have some Slaters axles so the wheels don't wobble so much. So I can fit the brakes.
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bianco55
Re: Partwork Flying Scotsman
HI
What you've done so far looks excellent,are you going to run it , if so what motor are you going to use . I'm thinking of using a mashima, I've used the smaller ones before and they are very good. thanks for the reply
What you've done so far looks excellent,are you going to run it , if so what motor are you going to use . I'm thinking of using a mashima, I've used the smaller ones before and they are very good. thanks for the reply
Soldering and the MAZAK footplate Part 1
Haven't checked the forum for a while - apologies.
If anybody has soldered (or is thinking about soldering) all the little bits and pieces on to the MAZAK plate as if it were whitemetal then there is a potential problem hanging around (for any chemists reading this, there's an ickle jokette in there). Also I have had no experience with this so you must make up your own mind.
As somebody who is a credit card subscriber (and thus a few issues behind) and also hanging on until the problems are sorted out with the kit before starting, I have time to muck about planning, thinking about stuff, following links (e.g. the rivets) and planning some sort of an approach to the build. Also, it doesn't help that I'm building a 4F at the moment. So one of the things that has occupied me has been the MAZAK plate and how to join stuff on to it. An experienced scratchbuilder of my acquaintance knew nothing of soldering MAZAK - in fact, he knew very little about the material apart from its use in diecast toys. So I messed about on tinterweb trying to find stuff. Eventually :- http://www.finescale.org.uk/show_page.php?pid=101
Nip down the page and have a look at the grey flux :- http://www.finescale.org.uk/inc/prodinf ... Height=100
Now on this page there is the first hint of a problem with the mention of Electrofix. Silly me, I bought the grey flux and some No. 179 Strip Solder before checking it out. Please don't do this. It also doesn't help that Electrofix isn't on the soldering page. However :- http://www.finescale.org.uk/inc/prodinf ... Height=100
Now we are at the nub - (a) the zinc content of MAZAK (b) the purity of the Mazak and (c) electrolytic corrosion with the aluminium content.
If anybody has soldered (or is thinking about soldering) all the little bits and pieces on to the MAZAK plate as if it were whitemetal then there is a potential problem hanging around (for any chemists reading this, there's an ickle jokette in there). Also I have had no experience with this so you must make up your own mind.
As somebody who is a credit card subscriber (and thus a few issues behind) and also hanging on until the problems are sorted out with the kit before starting, I have time to muck about planning, thinking about stuff, following links (e.g. the rivets) and planning some sort of an approach to the build. Also, it doesn't help that I'm building a 4F at the moment. So one of the things that has occupied me has been the MAZAK plate and how to join stuff on to it. An experienced scratchbuilder of my acquaintance knew nothing of soldering MAZAK - in fact, he knew very little about the material apart from its use in diecast toys. So I messed about on tinterweb trying to find stuff. Eventually :- http://www.finescale.org.uk/show_page.php?pid=101
Nip down the page and have a look at the grey flux :- http://www.finescale.org.uk/inc/prodinf ... Height=100
Now on this page there is the first hint of a problem with the mention of Electrofix. Silly me, I bought the grey flux and some No. 179 Strip Solder before checking it out. Please don't do this. It also doesn't help that Electrofix isn't on the soldering page. However :- http://www.finescale.org.uk/inc/prodinf ... Height=100
Now we are at the nub - (a) the zinc content of MAZAK (b) the purity of the Mazak and (c) electrolytic corrosion with the aluminium content.
Soldering and the MAZAK footplate Part 2
http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=B_qE ... q=&f=false
Zip down and have a look at pages 247/248 about zinc and its alloys.
So there we have it, it ain't just a matter of getting the low melt solder out. And there may also be a long term problem with the MAZAK if the manufacturer wasn't too hot about the zinc purity. And if you decide to go soldering along the Electrofix route, you might end up buggering the plastic boiler and smokebox saddle.
Hey ho, time to try and find my epoxy.
Zip down and have a look at pages 247/248 about zinc and its alloys.
So there we have it, it ain't just a matter of getting the low melt solder out. And there may also be a long term problem with the MAZAK if the manufacturer wasn't too hot about the zinc purity. And if you decide to go soldering along the Electrofix route, you might end up buggering the plastic boiler and smokebox saddle.
Hey ho, time to try and find my epoxy.
Re: Partwork Flying Scotsman
I have been collecting these,and am on part 113.12 more to go.one thing is im still waiting for part no. 40.the news agent keeps phoneing up and,im still waiting.any way i have not started building this yet . thought it may be better to ge all the parts first.but now im not sure if i will build it at all,and just sell it at a loss,if i decide to sell it when i get all the isues i will place a add in the forums.
pete
pete
Cede Nullis