Building Points With The New C&L Timber Tracks Templates

[Nick Hanson]

Hi All
As part of my new O Gauge layout I have decided to build my own points and use C&L Flexi track instead of the traditional Peco track work – not that there is anything wrong with Peco – but in O the choice is a bit limited. I’d built a few points manly B6 using the traditional C&L components of plastic sleepers laid over a paper template. No problems except when you remove the paper template the sleepers attached to the slide chairs fall out (not a problem) and the whole thing lacks a degree of rigidity. Then I saw an advert for the timber tracks template and as I had to build a 3 way point (and an outside slip next) I was very interested in giving it a go. So I thought it would be useful to share my experiences in building one. You will still need a paper template but just to reference on what type of chairs to put on each rail and also as a template to make up Vee's, wing rails and check rails etc..



In 7mm the template comes in two parts



A tiny bit of double sided tape will secure the template to a sheet of MDF but will be easier to remove latter as there is nothing fixing the sleepers to the MDF



The components required of chairs and fishplates, The brown 3 bolt chairs are from C&L, the beige bridge chairs are from Exactoscale and the black slide chairs are Peco, the brown one from C&L . The isolated fishplates are from Exactoscale and the comestic ones are from C&L.

[Nick Hanson]

Building a point is not hard, just take your time - the most important thing is gauges - without them they will not work - I don't believe you could build a point without gauges.



As I'm building a 3 way point there is no straight stock rail to start with so I slide the chairs onto rail cut to length and followed the marked lines on the template. I placed gauges at the start of the point to check the template was "about" ok. The glue the chairs to the sleepers I am using C&L Butone which is a special liquid glue for ABS plastic. It works just as well on wood as on plastic sleepers (one of my reseverations) the only difference being it takes a few seconds longer to bond.



I make the Vee's and wing rails up to the apprioprate angles on a piece of paper. The 3 way needs a 1 in 6 and a 1 in 8 . The 1 in 8 was fitted first again using the gauges ( there is a small v marked between the sleepers indicating where it should rest). The copper cladding is just to support the nose of the vee at the same height as the chairs. Only fixed the chairs opposite the check rail at this point



Next fix the 1 in 6 Vee and fix all chairs down as this is a very short length of rail and has not much flexability in it. Again don't trust your eyes use the gauges !!


Finally the middle road can be fixed by applying the gauges and fixing down the chairs on the 1 in 8 vee I had left loose

[Nick Hanson]

The final Vee has a very short side and a long piece of rail that needs curving between your fingers. This one is slightly different in the fact that it needs gauging of both outside rails at the same time. I generally leave the chairs on the outside rail in the centre of the rail unbonded so I've got the flexability to set this up perfectly. If however a bonded chair needs pulling in or pushing out a bit a scapel under the chair will free it easy enough (far easier than if usings plastic sleepers) gauge and then dab some butone on.



Next is the first of the wing rails. These are set at the same angle as the Vee - Setting up the wing rails they need to be gauged of each stock rail -the most important part is making sure the knuckles of the wing rails are parallel



Using one of the Exactoscale plastic fishplates attach the first point blade (which has been measured and cut accordingly) again using the gauges to the outside stock rail. Some advice I was given sometime ago was "never try and make your own switch blades unless you have a milling machine" I buy my switch blades finished from C&L as they come milled and provide the perfect joint to the stock rail - one less thing to worry about.

[Nick Hanson]

You then just have to fit all the wing rails and switch blades as per plan gauging off the various stock rails to provide the basic formations



The chairs next to the check rails will need trimming close to the rail otherwise you won't get the check rail close enough. I fine it easier to thread the chairs as normal and trim when on the rail



THe finished item should look like this

[Nick Hanson]

Next I add the cosmetic fishplates. These are simply superglued onto the web of the rail, but give the finishing touch to the turnout. Again the template shows where they should go



Prehapes one other area that used to confuse me was tie bars - using something that is reliable and strong enough. Now I'm using slow action points on my layout so soldered tie bars will be ok but if you are using solnoid type this method may not be as long lasting. Also because this is 7mm I am using the tie bars from Pete Waterman's JLRT. Now the problem with these is they are 2 piece etched brass and if you solder them together you will get a short circuit. For strength I have done the following


Cut a piece of very thin copper clad (which is copper both sides) to the width required


Solder together


Clean up and file away excess cladding.


Make sure that they are not conducting and are fully isolated (test to make sure)


Finally solder to switch rails to provide a neat tie bar in which to operate from under the baseboard


Turn the unit over and add the electrical bonding from brass wire. Don't rely on the blades providing electrical current. You can also see the Vee locations here on which the assemblies rest on as mentioned earlier.

All that's left to do is stain the sleepers and fix to the baseboard. I will remove the template surround at this point only.

[Nick Hanson]

I will post some picturers of the turnout stained etc when I've done it. In the mean time to conclude on how I found the Timber Track Template :-

1. Rigid - so does not fall apart like paper templates can (especially where there are slide rails)
2. Using Butone chairs adhere perfectly
3. Cheaper (you don't have to buy any sleepers)
4. Flexible - these can be laid in situ and ballasted before you build the point work on top (just like the old stud method)
5. By cutting the webbing or removing the outside frame can be curved to your requirements
5. look better ( my opinion anyway !)

If anybody wants some more information please eith e-mail me or IM me

p.s I have nothing to do with any of the companies mentioned

[Webbo46]

looks good, posted this to keep it near the top of the viewing list in case anyones interested in good tracklaying.
Alan

[Essex2Visuvesi]

Those look rather nice. I looked at BIY OO points and track from C+L ut decided my skills couldn't do it justice. Starting to think its not as daunting as I first thought

Those famous last words
"How hard can it be?"

[Webbo46]

Lets keep this at the top, so I don't have to search for it.
Alan