Not a layout - but railway modelling

[Dad-1]

Hi ste234,

It does move ! all track both elevated and quay are fully wired, I have all of 10" back & forth with the 06 shunter (wagon excluded) !!
At least I can sit a sound loco up top 'ticking over' although a class 37 can't move, just sort of shake .....

Have more ideas to try in the future ..... 20 - 24" x 10" in my opinion is about ideal, this one at 15" x 9.5 is perhaps a bit short.

Geoff T.

[ste234]

Hi ste234,

It does move ! all track both elevated and quay are fully wired, I have all of 10" back & forth with the 06 shunter (wagon excluded) !!
At least I can sit a sound loco up top 'ticking over' although a class 37 can't move, just sort of shake .....

Geoff T.

Even better

[Dad-1]

After Andrew's Layout and his "master Class" of drain pipes I thought I'd show
a quicker, but much inferior method as used by me.

I use plastic rod & tube from 'Aeroclub', to have hollow down pipes & stench pipes I use tube.
The wall attachment is by drilling into the pipe and superglueing a stub of 30 amp fusewire. This has to be long enough to hold pipes away from the building, but deep enough in to give a secure fixing.
Then I wrap fine wire (5 amp fusewire will do) around with one band above the attachment pin & one below, keeping the cut ends to the rear.
Because the wall mountings are solidly in place the attachment holes in your building have to be accurate to within a few thou. Very minor adjustments can be made by bending the attachment stub.





Not I fear anywhere near the quality of Andy's fine work, but it's always worth having a few options to experiment with.

Geoff T. No.1 fan of Grotland who has taught me much of what I do !! ...... (In other words blame him for the crap I turn out !!)

[dagenham]

hi ya mate
loving the work you have done to the building with the drain pipes
so what are you planning on next to do on the layout
peter

[Dad-1]

Hi dagenham,

Each diorama is an individual 3D picture, this one is close to being finished with just minimal touch-ups of paint here and there. Plus perhaps some dark black/green sea weed between the high tide mark and the water level. Oh and the photographs for a back scene need taking ..... somewhere, just not seen what I have in my minds eye !!

Then I have a job coming up soon doing the scenics on my DCC clubs 23' x 15' layout as well as getting on with one (6' x 3') in my garage that's sat unloved through winter ! just a little larger than a diorama, but anything under 10 degrees C and I stop work .......

My next diorama is scheduled to start as winter 2011-12 starts rolling in - no idea what yet, but no doubt something will catch my imagination between now and then.

Geoff T.

[0121modeller]

Hi Geoff,
The matt/layered paintwork effect on that metal drainpipe is very impressive,
I likened it to our cast iron drainpipe in our back yard, except ours has an add-on replacement of white ABS/plastic replacement for the lower part, pipes are not aligned to joining up due to poor brickwork condition, loose & rusted retainers holding it to the wall but looks great if modelling this.

Dave.

[Dad-1]

Right, One final few photos before this is allowed to fade into the distant past.
It was built for a competition on another somewhat private website. It cost me an
additional £7, all other items figures, cars, boat, wagons, locos, most of the wood
& MDF was from spares and other layouts. In actual work time this was made over
a period of 6 weeks and was used for some experimental stuff I'd not tried before.









Next diorama next winter ...... 'till then, Over & Out !!

Geoff T.

[Dad-1]

I've rescued this from as far back as page 12 !!
Thought I'd add the latest diorama here rather than in the middle of my main layout thread.

Having a 30' long caravan holiday home by the sea is great - The down side is having nowhere
to really do any railway modelling. But how to keep busy on foul days and evenings ? small space
dioramas with, if lucky some railway aspect !!





My farm house building needed a plot of land and a couple of fields alongside - one with a Bronze Age 'Barrow'

This has moved on, but no more photos until we're back there as it stays in Dorset.
All low cost small space stuff - Who says railway modelling is expensive ?

Geoff T.

[DAVE1562]

Hi Dad-1....some top quality builds there, nice one...more pics please when you have em

[Dad-1]

Well, been in Dorset for the last 2 weeks or so .......
Therefore work started again on Shillingstones Lane.
First a quick look at my sifted coarse sand ballast ....



When left behind in May I still had some grassing to finish, just the gateway of the Barrow field and start the cows field.





Gates & Posts needed for the Barrow field



Even started on grassing the cutting sides.
A Part II due very soon !!

Geoff T.

[Dad-1]

In my opinion good (if this is good?) modelling is 3D art. Every artist has their favourite mediums & pigments
so here are most of mine that were used on Shillingstones Lane.



Grassing the steeply sloped cutting sides were not easy, it needed the base board to be propped at an angle to keep the PVA mix under control !



The now green cows field





Fencing in on the Barrow field.



An overall view again.



The last job has been making the double gates from plasticard.



I hope you think the last 2 weeks work has been worth the effort.

Geoff T.

[jon_1066]

Looks very nice. If I could make one suggestion I would say the cow field needs a little bit more mud. Any field with cows in ends up chewed up where they congregate and enter/exit.

[TK421]

Very nice certainly has a west country feel to it.

[Dad-1]

Back in the land of electronic communications .......
After that small 17 day break away in Dorset.
So what did my crazy mind think of ......... Standing stones. I've worked out a mystical legend to attach
to this additional piece of Shillingstones Lane, that is If I ever get around to writing it.

First get my spare 300 mm x 12 inches piece of varnished ply.
Mark & drill holes as needed for matchstick fence & gate posts. cut holes for standing stones to sit in.



Then add some small variation of land level, a hump along the fence line with a bump in the field. for this I
used kitchen towel and the ever present PVA/water ballast mix.



Paint the whole piece with Humbrol enamels, I used 140 for the roadway and 29 dark earth to go under the
grassed areas. When dry glue down a mixture of Weymouth & Polzeath sands to give the worn spaces the
stony look.



Next posting to add grass, fencing & stile.

Geoff T.

[Dad-1]

Picture 1 in Pt.1 seems a little unreliable, sometimes it shows, other times not - odd but I can live with it.
Right into Pt.2

The next move was to start adding grass, using the usual scatter mix that I showed earlier. This is what brings a model to life.



I lay my grass in small sections, firstly because in hot weather the adhesive dries too quickly, secondly to limit the amount
of liquid adhesive running around. Even doing small sections at time if can start dripping off the side !!



To see how quickly this has come together note the photograph dates. We travelled down on the 17th & this piece was
started on the 18th.



Perhaps an extra picture later.

Geoff T.