Point Control - wire-in-tube method

[clivef5915]

Being a bit 'old school' I'm not into the more modern aspects of this hobby so control will be 12v DC. I'm about to start up again in OO modelling my favourite location 'Bath Green Park'. I would like to use mechanical point operation. Has anyone any tips or hints on how to make this possible, ie components, ways and means etc.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Regards. clive f

[random man]

Use points motors available from Hornby, Peco, or SEEP along with LED's to show which way the point is hold on ill just draw up a picture

[Westleigh]

Hi Clive

I'm experimenting with an even simpler method than "wire in tube" for mechanically changing points.

I'm using a wire coat hanger as a push rod, with a length of copper electrical wire wrapped round and held in place with solder. This copper wire goes up through the baseboard, and through the small hole in the tie bar of the Peco points. A couple of small cable clips hold the push rod in place and limit the movement in either direction.

Peco points are sprung, so simply pulling the push rod in or out changes the points.

It's not fancy, but it's cheap and so far seems quite robust!

I could try to take some pictures if you think it would help!

[random man]

here:





basically flick the switch and the LED will change then quickly push the p-t-m switch so you dont get confused! and the points will change so as long as you dont flick the switch except when you need to change points then it will always show which way the points are. If you attatch the LED's to a drawing of your layout this can prove quite effective

[clivef5915]

Hi Nick,

I would indeed like to see a photo. My mind is boggling at what I'm picturing is your system!!

And to Random Man, many thanks for the time spent on the diagram which will no doubt be a great benefit for those who wish electrical activation, but I am looking to mechanical control and operation.

Many Thanks again
clive f

[random man]

oh, sorry! i misunderstood!

But pretty simple:

Get a points motor and fit it underneath your baseboard but, instead of making it electrical, attatch something that wont bend to the points motor so that when you move that it moves the bit on the points motor, and have the bit of wire or whatever is connected to a switch. Solder it to the side of a switch, as when you have an on-on switch:

When you move the switch, it moves a "box" inside which makes electrical contacts with two out of the three wires connected, with the middle one the power supply. Therefore if you have something connected to the "box" that would move as well, and look a lot neater. Just something i can think of off the top of my head

[Danny]

You could use the string in the tube method where you have two pieces of string each connected to each side of the tie bar. Have the string held by hoops or in tubes under the baseboard. Finally link the two strings to two beed near your control panel pulling on string will pull to point one way whereas pulling another string will pull the point the other way.

For the wire in the tube method you could be clever and make some mechanical levers like what they have in old signal boxes.

Couple of thoughs.

Danny.

[Wayne Kinney]

Hi,

Im setting mine up with a 'string and spring return' method.

[mumbles]

hi
this company in back of railway modeller does wire in tube, can't find a website that lists them though
Modeloils 12 Marina Drive, Wolverton, Buckinghamshire, MK12 5DW
Tel 01908 225254
michael

[ELR]

There is this one

http://www.gemmodelrailways.co.uk/GEM_Web_Site/Mercontrol.html

I believe another company does a similar system known as 'Slippery Sid'

[Westleigh]

OK, some pictures, as asked for.

This is all you need:



Simply wrap the copper electrical wire around the coat hanger and secure with solder (or I suppose you can use epoxy or something else):



Position the coat hanger push-rod under the baseboard. You need to drill a hole in the frame, and another under the tie bar. Push the copper wire through the hold in the tie bar. Secure in place with cable clips.



Trim the coper wire on top:



Pushing/pulling the coat hanger will operate the points.

I just need to come up with something to use as a handle on the end of the coat hanger.

Benefits - it's cheap (virtually free, in fact!); seems quite robust so far; I can operate the points without intruding onto the layout; the rods are arranged along the layout so it is easy to identify which lever operates each point; it's very cheap (did I mention that bit already?)

Disadvantages - it's a bit crude; the rods aren't together but arranged along the layout, although for me they are all within reach of the middle of the layout, & I can walk along with a hand-held controller; my layout is only 8ft long and 18" wide. It probably wouldn't be practical on a larger layout.

Comments welcome!

[mumbles]

looks very good, i should imagine, as you say, it would be impractical for a large layout or if there where points on anything other than a parallel to the edge of the board.
i've also heard of bicylce spokes bing used for the purpose
michael

[dickinsonjon]

I was having very much the same dilemma last weekend, and after a few cups of tea I hit on the solution. Get an old length of rail, and slide a metal rail joiner half way on to one end and solder it so it's fast. Then, with a sharp thin punch, knock a hole in the free end of the rail joiner and use a needle file to open it out so it will *just* fit over the upright lug on the end one of the point arms facing the baseboard. Then, from the point edge to the baseboard, take a sharp knife and cut a V-shaped trench - you did lay cork tiles on top of the plywood didn't you? Can't vouch for other materials, but the cork cuts fine. Put a little pair of bends in the rail joiner so that when you slot it over the point lug, the rail (upside down, flat bottom faces upwards) rests in the trench. Cut the rail to length and fit a single chunk of choccy strip over the end as an operating knob, tighten both screws up. Now cut a piece of plastikard to fit over the trench and glue round the edges, being careful to make sure no glue goes in the trench. Stick a little blob of epoxy on the rail joiner/lug region to make sure it stays on permanently. Paint over the plastikard with whatever baseboard undercoat colour you're using. Hey presto, you're done. If you do this, don't forget you need to do it for points furthest away from the operating edge of the baseboard *before* you lay any track in between them and the edge - obvious to say that now, but needless to say it's an easy mistake to make. Fortunately it was only one piece.

[PTmodeller]

Mumbles, ModelOils is on eBay.

[mumbles]

Mumbles, ModelOils is on eBay.

i saw that but they didn't seem to have the wire in tube stuff on there, there is another website that they have with hornby and peco on too but not with WIT
thats no joke!
michael