Point Control - wire-in-tube method

[pete12345]

To bring the pushrods together you could use little angle cranks than link two rods at 90 degrees to each other and transmit the force. I made some for a layout from some sheet steel I had lying around- shame the wire was too bendy.... but the cranks worked ok

Pete

[Westleigh]

That's interesting, Pete. As I say, I can stand in the middle and reach all the push-rods so not a problem for me.

[bevel_drive]

I made the decision to follow the rod-in-tube method a while back. Here are some pics of the prototype, made from scrap bits.

Can't remember exact dimensions of tube/rod, but if you're interested I'll measure them later - I have now purchased enough to do all my layout (14 points in total). Think brass rod is 0.8mm and copper 2.5mm (o/d).

This prototype shows bent rod handle for operation, but my final version will have lever frames, probably groups of 4-levers per frame. The operating pin is just a piece of the same brass rod soldered across at 90 degrees.

I have found if you keep the bends smooth and regular it will work well without bell cranks. A smear of graphite grease on the rod is all that is needed.

Cheers
Steve

[clivef5915]

With all the ingenuity displayed just to move a point manually I'm wondering why we are so far behind the Americans in the Space Race !!!

Many thanks for all the responses from which I have gleaned some good ideas.

My intended layout size is 20' x 4', being made up of about a 5' - 6' length for Bath Green Park station itself, then a further 10' - 11' for the S & D and Midland shed areas, with the last few feet being the start of a right angled turn to an 8' x 2' fiddle yard.

Altogether there are about 40 - 45 points and slips to operate over the whole length so the control has to be fairly central so I don't wear myself out running up and down just changing the points !!

Once again, many thanks for the responses.

Regards.
clive f

[Silver Surfer]

Clive

Is this what you're looking for?
http://www.gemmodelrailways.co.uk/GEM_Web_Site/Mercontrol.html

A product called 'Slippery Sid' is advertised in Railway Modeller but I haven't any further details I'm afraid.

Mike.

[clivef5915]

Silver Surfer

Spot on component wise! Would just have to find a remedy to increase the uncut length of the copper tube/wire. Something in excess of about 10ft would be handy, but failing that all the other bits should do the job.

Many thanks

clive

[Silver Surfer]

Try stripping the plastic off a choco block connector of a suitable size and then either solder or epoxy it to the tube. You could try screwing the terminals in very gently but this would no doubt crush the tube.

Mike

[dr5euss]

It's easy enough to butt the copper tubes against each other, but yeah, it'd be probably essential to have one length of wire.

You could always e-mail GEM and see if they'd cut you a longer length?

[bevel_drive]

It's not essential to run the copper outer tube along the entire length of the run. I have found you can afford to have short gaps (on straight sections) with just the odd screw eye for guidance. In those areas you can join the brass inner rod by simple overlap joints.

The worst problem I have found (and mine are now almost completed) is hegotiating the board cross members.

Steve

[muppet552]

I went for the wire in tube option after getting inspiration from following link

http://www.mixedtraffic.net/downloads/p ... levers.htm

I used gear lever wire and surrounding tube bought from a cycle shop and it worked . It offered me a fair degree of flexibility on where I could situate the control point. I then used tiling spacers (those little cross shaped things) to link to points which then pivoted giving my points movement.

No pics as yet but will take some later and upload, if I can work out how!!

Cheers

Rob

[scottmac99]

I've been searching for a long time for any sort of supplier of wire and tube, and found this thread very helpful. Model shops here tend to shake their heads in wonder when you mention w and t to them.

Anyway, I discovered http://www.modratec.com based in Queensland, Oz, who not only sell wire and tube packs, but also a rather nice fully customisable lever frame system, and it appears they will send anywhere worldwide.

Scott

[frolly]

OK, some pictures, as asked for.

This is all you need:


Simply wrap the copper electrical wire around the coat hanger and secure with solder (or I suppose you can use epoxy or something else):


Position the coat hanger push-rod under the baseboard. You need to drill a hole in the frame, and another under the tie bar. Push the copper wire through the hold in the tie bar. Secure in place with cable clips.


Trim the coper wire on top:


Pushing/pulling the coat hanger will operate the points.

I just need to come up with something to use as a handle on the end of the coat hanger.

Benefits - it's cheap (virtually free, in fact!); seems quite robust so far; I can operate the points without intruding onto the layout; the rods are arranged along the layout so it is easy to identify which lever operates each point; it's very cheap (did I mention that bit already?)

Disadvantages - it's a bit crude; the rods aren't together but arranged along the layout, although for me they are all within reach of the middle of the layout, & I can walk along with a hand-held controller; my layout is only 8ft long and 18" wide. It probably wouldn't be practical on a larger layout.

Comments welcome!

Try wire nuts for the handle


and you can buy welding wire to use for the push rod you can get it in 1mtr lengths various gague

[Wingnut]

Hi,
If nobody has mentioned it (i did not read the whole thread ) I use bicycle gear outer cable (€2/metre) and 1mm piano wire inside (free from your friendly piano tuner). The gear cable outer comes with a plastic sleeve inside and the piano wire moves freely inside and can be made to negotiate fairly sharp turns in the run nailed to the underside of the board with cable clips. The piano wire is also stiff enough for the end to be bent through 90deg and pass throught he tiebar hole.

regards David